I don't even know where to begin in describing Varanasi, India. This is one of the most fascinating cities I've visited. We extended our stay one extra day because we weren't ready to leave just yet. (See slideshow of Varanasi photos to the right)
We left Nepal 3 days ago and it took 25 hours to get to Varanasi. We took a bus to the border and crossed into India. When clearing immigrations on the Indian side, I sneezed and pulled out a Kleenex and blew my nose. No harm, right? Well apparently some silly swine flu broke out while we were trekking that we knew nothing about. Immediately I had several Indian immigration agents with mouth covers coming over to me asking if I felt okay, was I sick, what kind of symptoms was I experiencing, etc. After assuring them it was a harmless sneeze, they stamped my passport and let me through.
We arrived Varanasi at 5am. Varanasi is one of the oldest cities in the world. In India, it's by far the holiest city where Indians prefer to die. Everything in Varanasi is based on karma and religion and you constantly hear chanting, bells and drums while smelling incense offered up to Shiva. The streets are incredibly old and narrow and it's easy to get lost just wandering around aimlessly. Cows are very holy in India and there are large, homeless cows wondering all over the streets. It makes it difficult sometimes to get around them in the narrow streets but you get used to just giving them a sharp smack on the rear and they move out of your way. With all the holy cows comes holy crap and I'm afraid I accidental stepped in a huge pile of it last night.
We checked into a wonderful guesthouse right on the banks of the Ganges River. We had a beautiful view and watched the sun rise, which always seems blood red in India because of the pollution in the air. We took a stroll along the Ganges and experienced the daily activities of the locals. Everyone comes to the riverside first thing in the morning to bathe, chant, and say morning prayers. Many wash their clothes and others just meditate around the river. People dance, sing and beat drums while lighting candles and and floating them, along with flowers, down the river.
One of the best experiences is renting a boat and an oarsman and having a leisurely paddle up and down the river. We did this our first night and saw several fires from the shore. Our oarsman (who happened to be a 10 year old kid) took us close to the shore where we saw our first cremation site. I'll try to explain the 'burning ghat' to my macabre friends, while maintaining the dignity of the deceased.
When a person dies in Varanasi, their family washes the body with oil and adorns them in their finest clothes and covers them with a bright sheet. Their body is then taken to the river, where it is dipped in the water and then put on a pile of wood. The oldest son wears ceremonial white and shaves his head. He takes a piece of wood that has been lit with fire and circles the body 5 times and then lights the wood below. The body takes approximately 3 hours to completely burn.
There are about 10 cremations taking place at any given time. When the fire is out, the eldest son brings any remaining bones to the Ganges and tosses them in. I have never seen such a site in my life and I have to say I was transfixed by it.
The next morning we walked down to the cremation site and a local came up and offered to show us around. This is a tradition in Varanasi they are very proud of. We walked right up close to the burning mounds and I saw a woman's arm on fire on one mound and a man's leg on fire at another. (They say the wood keeps the bodies from smelling while they burn but I beg to differ.)
We spent the next few days just strolling up and down the Ganges and being part of this very holy city. I found a favorite shop which made a delicious lassi (yogurt smoothie) and I would sit there and drink my lassi while watching bodies being carried down the street on bamboo stretchers on their way to cremation.
Varanasi is all about witnessing a holy experience and I'm so glad we started here for our journey around the north. Tonight we leave on the train to Taj Mahal. For once, we were smart and booked in advance and actually got a sleeper car so we aren't in economy sandwiched between 2,495 people. I'll write more from there! Love K
